For a Free Tour of Woody Strings, tell me...
Who is the man in the photo?
The photo shows a two-way adjustable truss rod. The truss rod is set into a 1/4" (6.35 mm) slot routed into the neck. A silicone caulking is applied to ensure against rattling. Woody prefers to tape over the threads to keep them clean during this process.
Also note the maple strips inlaid on both sides of the truss rod. These strips are inlaid nearly as deep as the neck is thick. They create a lamination that strengthens the neck considerably. On previous guitars I used carbon fiber for these strips. I felt that the neck was almost TOO stiff when carbon fiber is used. It made it more difficult to get the proper neck relief. So, back to maple.
(Guitar linings used to strengthen the glue joint between the top or back plates and the sides of the guitar.)
Finally, one little quirk on the Mini that is under construction. I've never been satisfied with putting the kerfed linings on the rim and then notching them to accept the top and back brace ends. It often seems like the notch in the lining ends up a bit over-sized because it has to be laid out somewhat in the blind (particularly in regard to the angle that it crosses through the lining.
On the Mini I decided, "What the heck, I'm going to put the lining in one piece (several kerfs) at a time like I learned to do with tentalones when building a classical guitar. These would be kerfed tentalones.
The system I came up for gluing and clalmping was to use a 'go-stick' for pressing in the short lengths of kerfing while the glue dried. That way I would have a much tighter joint because I would be setting the tentalone directly on top of the brace end and pressing it down with the go stick.
Long story short: When I finished, I gave the soundboard the tap test. It rings like a bell.
See you next month,